Research Findings- Handloom Silk Industry

1980s

The growth of the silk weaving industry in Tamilnadu in the 1980's is largely due to the new, emerging middle class, the emulation of the 'elite,' and better rural-urban links.

The middle class tended to emulate the upper class by wearing grand silks at ritual functions. The silk sari emerged as a powerful status symbol.

Regional differences in type of sari- Kanchipuram produced the Korvai double side border using a throw shuttle loom with a pallu (mundhanai) attached separately.

Around the late 1970s, the middle class created a demand for saris that emulated the Kanchipuram style, but could be bought at a cheaper rate. This demand was supplied by weavers at Arani, who shifted from their specialty (single color dobby) to attempting the Kanchipuram Sari.

In the 1980s there was a three tier demand structure in Tamilnadu:

The low end market consisted of synthetic and mixed fiber saris.
The mass middle class bought price effective Kanchipuram-type Silks
The high end market- upper classes- primarily bought the grand, intricate and expensive original Kanchipuram saris.

The Kanchipuram weavers did not attempt to cater to the middle class.

Production of the Korvai sari was a labour intensive process. During the 1980s, this paved the way for non-traditional castes to enter the weaving labour force. The traditional weaving castes were Senguntha Mudaliars. New entrants were the Vanniars and Agamudaya Mudaliars who adopted the throw shuttle method.

This was due to the decline of labor absorption in agriculture and the emergence of weaving as a profitable alternative source of rural employment.

This created a distinction among weavers of different skill-sets and abilities. It was mostly children and young adults who shifted to weaving from non-traditional castes. This was because of the nature of weaving the Korvai which required assistants.

Post-Reform period- 1993+

Caste structure of weaving households- dominance of backward castes.

Less access to land ownership/marginal owners.

In Arani, 3/4 of the weaving community shift to Dharmavaram weaving, which does not require assistants in the manufacturing process. Changing priorities about education, decline in child labour force.

Non traditional caste weavers are at a disadvantage to the traditional weavers, whose kinship ties and intrinsic knowledge imbibed through their lives help them in the process.

The handloom sector is dependent upon the tradition of apprenticeship. Caste, kinship ties, cultural knowledge, and other social factors largely affect the transfer of knowledge.

Implications of powerlooms- it is believed that powerlooms will not greatly affect the handloom industry, which caters to the moneyed sections of society.

When facing threat from powerlooms, the handloom industry tends to produce intricate designs that emphasise the handmade aspect in order to withstand the threat.

Decline of co-operatives- many factors responsible. Lack of state support, piled up stock, discontent, discrimination, etc.

Govt. liberalisation policies emphasize production over employment, less restrictions on imports (large quantity of silk from China, which is suited for use in powerlooms) free trade policies, and public disinvestment.

Courtesy: The Making and Unmaking of Silk Weavers- A Case of Silk Weaving in the Arani Region, by N.A. Arivukkarasi, Phd. Research Scholar, MIDS